Infinite in All Directions

I have been on a whirlwind tour of South and Southeast Asia, some of it intentional, some of it unintentional. Within the span of 12 days, I will have visited Mumbai, Pune, Kolkata, Dhaka, Delhi and Singapore. Nine flights--two of them about 15 hours duration--and four addresses when all is said and done. Mix in a personal crisis and you have a recipe for complete and thorough exhaustion. While I wouldn't choose this particular pathway, I actually find exhaustion in some doses to be useful. It gives me a reality check on my willpower and stamina. It usually leads to strange but illuminating dreams. It's almost if my shields are stripped away and I'm forced to stare into a spiritual mirror.

As someone who likes to draw connections between seemingly unrelated items, I find Freeman Dyson's Infinite in All Directions particularly appealing. His preference for contradictions rather than clarity resonates with me. While I was in India heading to a workshop on digital preservation, my taxi was charged by a group of running bulls. My taxi driver navigated the situation brilliantly (I had the feeling he'd been through this before), but it still made me realize how odd it must be to focus on digital preservation in a country without clean water for all its citizens. Not exactly the running of the bulls that people seek in Pamplona--or on Wall Street.

I am struck, even dumbfounded, by how much so many people in Asia are trying to emulate Americans. I realize the US remains a dominant force in the world, but there's no denying that the lure of wealth rather than economic aid or military presence has driven this latest round of fascination. People throughout the region are trying so hard to speak, dress, and behave like Americans. And that's the tip of the iceberg.

There is a shiny skyscraper mall in Dhaka that features western retail shops and bright lights. Yet I experienced at least half a dozen power failures in my mother's house in Dhaka. My cousin told me that factories in Dhaka must run according to standards that include air conditioning, one restroom per four employees, an eight hour workday, and a cafeteria. All this so that one secure a contract with WalMart. Apparently, some factory workers rioted when they were served the same food for two consecutive meals. How soon we forget. There's bottled water everywhere which is great. Unless of course you can't afford bottled water in which case you're still dependent on local water supplies--that now may receive less attention given the proliferation of bottled water.

Mumbai is the seat of finance and entertainment in India yet it is still reeling from the horrific terrorist attack last year. My hotel had a metal detector at the entrance, my taxi was examined on the way into the hotel, and there was a guard on each floor. No matter how much everyone asked me in impeccable English if everything was perfect, it was disorienting to the say the least. Apparently, tourism is down in India, yet there's some evidence that high hotel rates rather than fear of terrorism is the main cause. Even now, it's important to maximize profit. Women working in hotels, with airlines, or in restaurants look like they've stepped out of Vogue yet in the newspaper, I read daily about at least two (reported) incidents of men brutally killing their wives for "disobeying" them.

Singapore is a testament to planning, discipline and commitment to society. No doubt that there are tradeoffs involved, particularly related to personal liberties, but I'd love to see an open, honest debate about how their society compares to the US (yes, I realize this debate would probably have to take place outside of Singapore). Yet even in Singapore there is concern that the global financial crisis might lead to "four to six years of recession" in a worst-case scenario. Strange. I don't read such honest assessments in the US press.

The US is a wonderful place in so many fundamental ways. But is it really the only pathway for the entire world to emulate? Do Asian societies really need their own equivalent of "Will it Blend?" How interesting to read articles that some in Asia now believe that the US has its own brand of "third world cronyism" protecting the financial sector.

Freeman Dyson stated: "If it should turn out that the whole of physical reality can be described by a finite set of equations, I would be disappointed." Indeed. While he may have meant this from a scientific perspective, it's highly relevant to consider statement from our current economic lens. The finite set of equations that drove the current financial mess turned out to be nothing more than fantasy. But it seems that we're dealing with a worldwide hangover with very real effects.

Yet even before the economic meltdown, there were signs of doubt. Even with fast food spreading like a virus, there remains incredibly rich diverse local food. While the officials languages at India's national level are Hindi and English, there are dozens of state recognized languages and hundreds of local dialects. The jingle of bangles reminded me that local fashion trends still include Asian elements.

There is a discussion--and in many circles concern--about a global culture. The only global culture that would frighten me is one where Madison Avenue dictates how we behave and Wall Street allocates our resources. If we can have an exchange between different cultures as opposed to a monologue we might have a chance to turning a cacophony of voices into mellifluous harmony that celebrates the diversity of our world.

The world may be flat, but it is still definitely infinite in all directions.

Sleepless in Singapore

I've traveled through Mumbai, Pune, Kolkata, Dhaka and Singapore in eight days. I've discovered that eventually one's body stops trying to figure out time zones. An interesting way of dealing with jet lag. There are so many feelings, thoughts, emotions, observations...I feel overwhelmed. I haven't been to South or Southeast Asia in a long time. Madison Avenue and Wall Street now seem to be Asian addresses, yet there remains a certain respect or attachment for distinctly Asian ways--especially now as the world watches the US with bated breath.

I just re-experienced a tropical rain storm. It was quite something seeing the dark, gray clouds eventually encompass the impressive Singaporean skyline. As if nature wanted to remind us that she continues to have dominion. The sound of thunder and raindrops flowing through leaves and bouncing off concrete, steel and glass had a lyrical feel. It was almost enough to make me fall asleep.